1:64 Kit Headquarters

For discussions, questions, tips, tricks, and sharing of your 1:64 builds please join our 1:64 Dirt Car group on Facebook – HERE


 Individual Kit Page links:

DM400 – 1983 Pennsboro
DM403 – 1992 Atomic
DM404 – 2008 Fayetteville
DM405 – 1987 Barren County


 

 What was the idea behind these kits?

In looking at dirt car builds from various people over the years, i’ve found that most people really don’t care that much about the accuracy of what lies under the body of their cars.  A 1:24 Revell ASA Camaro kit is a really popular base that people use for their builds.  Modelers will take the pavement Camaro chassis,  stick a dirt car body on it, some dirt tires, and call it good.

There is, of course, nothing wrong with doing this! (but it did get me thinking)

If people don’t really care about the care about the chassis accuracy, why not take the chassis completely out of the picture? Why not focus on making the body, wheels, and tires as perfect as possible, and pull the complexity of the chassis completely out.

That was basically the starting point for these kits.

Cost was the other major design factor.  The goal was to push the cost down as low as i could, but put those costs into the areas that most determine how nice a model will look when finished.

All of that said, these kits are definitely not perfect.  Dirt Modeler is a part-time, one-man, garage operation (half of a garage, technically).

There are some areas that did not turn out as well as i would have liked.  I have made note of these issues and if these kits prove popular, I will make some adjustments on subsequent releases.  These issues do not make these cars un-buildable, they are just annoyances of mine.  When i sit down and design these cars, i want them to almost fall together, and when they come up anything short of that i’m not completely happy.

I made a lot of design decisions based on making these cars as easy to build as i could.  Tires and Wheels are cast separately.  This basically doubles their cost since i have to have two molds, and cast two runs for one set.. the thin wall of the wheel means i have more rejects if the resin flow wasn’t perfect and a bubble forms… But separating these two parts out, and adding a photoetched wheel backer makes the wheels look amazing for that scale.

Being able to paint the tire and the wheel separately makes it easier to get a better final result since you won’t need to use a detail brush to perfectly paint the edge of the wheel.  You just paint it separate and glue it into place in the separately painted tire.

I hope everyone will like the kits.  Their future really depends on how well they are received.

Michael S. Crowley
Dirt Modeler